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How to deal with this defect on the top?
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Author:  Linus [ Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:50 pm ]
Post subject:  How to deal with this defect on the top?
When I was pealing back the tape after binding, the tape tore up a few fibers from the top. Guess I need to warm the tape next time before peeling it off.

I sanded but didn't want to go too thin. Now as I french polish the defect is looking like this.

Image

I've done 4 bodying sessions and the defect is getting a bit smaller but not filling in completely. How do I get it to fill in?? Just keep going with the FP? Apply the shellac directly into the defect with a tiny detail brush? Lacquer stick? Something else?

Thanks everyone.
Author:  meddlingfool [ Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:58 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How to deal with this defect on the top?
I think applying shellac directly into the gouge until it builds up. I suppose you could even use medium CA if you're going to continue to build a finish layer on top of it. And yup, next time crack out the hair dryer...
Author:  Linus [ Sat Dec 07, 2013 9:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How to deal with this defect on the top?
I'll have to go searching for one at thrift stores...
Author:  meddlingfool [ Sat Dec 07, 2013 9:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How to deal with this defect on the top?
I use a paint stripper fun which was a whopping 20$ I think...
Author:  Joe Beaver [ Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:25 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How to deal with this defect on the top?
I've never tried a hair dryer. If you shellac the top before using the binding tape, pull the tape off at a near 0 angle, and never pull it back in line with the grain, it will reduce the occurrence of wood coming with the tape. A hair dryer sounds like added insurance.
Author:  Deserter [ Sun Dec 08, 2013 3:30 am ]
Post subject:  Re: How to deal with this defect on the top?
I've always used an iron on its lowest heat for loosening tape, works a treat.


~Nil carborundum illegitemi~
Author:  bluescreek [ Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:30 am ]
Post subject:  Re: How to deal with this defect on the top?
beginners learning curve. You must learn to read the grain and do as Filippo said , pull diagonally to the grain. Start pulling under the fretboard extension so you get a read of the grain fibers. Using a sealer as stated above also works.
To fix your issue you now have to drop fill and build up that voided area.
Author:  David Wren [ Sun Dec 08, 2013 10:32 am ]
Post subject:  Re: How to deal with this defect on the top?
There's a couple of ways to deal with something like that. Either drop some CA in there ... let it cure well ... then level with fine abrasive on a hard block. I've also found that using a pounce bag (a small square of t-shirt material some fine pumice dumped in the middle, then pull it into a shape that looks like the fad you use to apply the shellac and put an elastic around it to hold together) can be a powerful tool. Just bounce the pounce bag on the top near the blemish, leaving a fine dusting of pumice ... then go in with your shellac fad, a little wetter than usual (you actually want to start to burn through the finish a bit, to shift the existing shellac into the crevice) and a little more oil than usual (because concentrating on a small area can make the fad stick). In this case the pumice is not used to fill, but as an abrasive. The combination of going in wet to shift the existing shellac ... and the abrasive action of the pumice, can really fill in anomalies in the finish. Experience will tell you how wet and how much pumice.
Author:  Ken Franklin [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 1:36 am ]
Post subject:  Re: How to deal with this defect on the top?
Sprinkle a little pumice from a salt shaker on your pad and let it clear. It doesn't take much. Then fp as usual with a very thin cut of shellac. Should even things out pretty easily.
Author:  WaddyThomson [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 1:59 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How to deal with this defect on the top?
As stated, use pumice, alcohol, tiny amounts of shellac and more oil than normal for bodying to keep it from sticking. Work it like you are pore filling with pumice. Work the whole area, not concentrating too hard on the blemish itself, but going over it repeatedly. If you concentrate too much on the blemish area only, you'll burn through the finish pretty fast, that's why I said work a larger area. Do several sessions with a 10 minute wait between them, then body some more to build up the finish a bit, then repeat the pumice process. Do this till it goes away, and it will, but it may seem like it never will. After you've done several rounds like this, wait till the next day to do more. When so deep, blems take a long time to fill. I have had experience filling fingernail marks that I made on a perfectly good finish, French polishing with my playing nails and no gloves. Now I use Nitrile gloves and cotton liners when I polish.
Author:  Alexandru Marian [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 2:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How to deal with this defect on the top?
If you fill with shellac, it will shrink back a LOT later. I would use CA.
Author:  Greg B [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 2:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How to deal with this defect on the top?
CA repairs tend to show up later as well. Yes, drop filling with thick shellac is likely to sink, but it's still the safest method for a beginner.

IMHO, the least visible and fastest method is burn in stick. Smear some wax around the defect to prevent sticking, and push in some clear lacquer stick. Be careful that the iron is not too hot, or you can bubble the surrounding finish and end up worse off than when you started. Scrape or sand it flush, and proceed.

This most definitely should be practiced on scrap!!!!

It's kind of hard to get an idea of the scale from that photo, but if it's small enough, sprinking with pumice and filling in like a big pore would be fast and effective, as has been suggested.
Author:  B. Howard [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 4:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How to deal with this defect on the top?
Burn in fill. Quick, easy, done. And it will not show in the finish.
Author:  Pat Foster [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 6:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How to deal with this defect on the top?
Lacquer stick, which is melted with a soldering iron, then FP over it after leveling. Very quick and doesn't shrink. I think that's what Brian is referring to.

Pat
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